MONDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2018
Frozen pipes happen when the temperature dips low enough that the water within the pipe begins to freeze. When water freezes, it expands, and if the water within the pipe freezes long enough and continues to expands it will burst the pipe. Once the temperature moves above freezing and the ice in the pipe starts to melt, you are left with a hole in your pipe and leaking water.
The easiest way to spot frozen pipes is actually pretty simple. When a pipe has frozen, water can’t really flow. So, when a faucet isn’t working at all, or can’t deliver more than a trickle of water, a frozen pipe is a very possible cause. Look for more information about how to fix frozen pipes later on in the 12 Days Winter Warnings.
Yesterday was all about determining when pipes are frozen. Today we’ll be talking about ways to prevent frozen pipes in the first place. The process is pretty simple: since pipes freeze when they’re exposed to low temperatures, keeping them warm keeps them safe. Wrapping pipes with pipe insulation is a good start. This insulation can be purchased fairly easily, and is simple to cut to size and wrap around the exposed pipe. Heat tape is another good option. Since this tape generates its own heat, it is especially good for any pipes that are prone to freezing. Finally, it’s important to keep the heat on in any rooms with pipes running through them throughout the winter. It’s amazing what a difference household heat can make!
Today, we’ll be finishing up our information about frozen pipes with an easy way to help prevent freezing without any advance preparation. When temperatures plunge, a freeze can be prevented by leaving the taps open at a trickle. For maximum freeze-stopping power, let the tap run enough to get the water flowing through the pipes, but it doesn’t need to be full blast. When water is moving, it’s a lot less likely to freeze – protecting otherwise at-risk pipes during cold snaps, or when there hasn’t been time to insulate. Outside faucets is another key area of concern. Preventing freezing and avoiding leaks is always the goal. You will want to disconnect the garden hose from the outside faucet and use the shut-off valve inside the home to shut off the water source to the outside faucet. Once the water is turned off outside the home, you will want to open the outside faucet to allow any excess water to drain from the sillcock.
Today we're switching gears from frozen pipes to ice dams, starting with how to spot one that's formed or forming. Ice dams come to exist for slightly more complicated reasons than frozen pipes: warmer outdoor temperatures cause snow on a roof to melt into water, but colder temperatures on the eaves cause the water at the edges to freeze. Water flowing down from above is blocked, and it forms a small pool behind the frozen ice dam on the eaves, leaking in through the shingles on the roof. Spotting ice dams is not too tricky. Look for any visible ice along the edges of the roof - it is not necessary to go up on the roof to spot them, and we don't recommend it in winter weather. Be especially careful to check on any surprise warmer days when conditions are ripe for snow above to melt, but the eaves to freeze. Ice and icicles along the eaves with snow above is a telltale sign of an ice dam.
Yesterday we talked about spotting ice dams; today we'll talk about clearing them. Always be careful when clearing one; getting to them can be tricky, and the areas around them can be very slick. Don't hesitate to call in professionals if needed!
Here are three tactics that can help with ice dams:
- Blow in cold air. If the leak is clearly ice dam related, get into the attic and place a box fan under the leaking area. This can help cool the area down, re-freezing the water and stopping the leak.
- Use a roof rake (carefully!) A long handled roof rake, used from the ground while standing safely out of the way of any falling snow, can pull snow off the roof and remove the hazard.
- Targeted ice melting. Another option is to deliver a targeted dose of ice melt right at the location of the ice dam (and the leak). Fill a semi-porous material (pantyhose work nicely) with ice melt (not salt) and place it perpendicular to the ice dam, crossing over it and overhanging the gutter. This ice melt will eventually melt the ice, giving the trapped water a way to run off.
Today we’re going to switch gears and talk about how to protect a property during a long trip. Many folks are going away for the holidays, and it’s crucial to have a property checked regularly when property owners are away. But just having someone walk through isn’t ideal – here are some tips to make that check-in really count.
- Have mail/newspapers collected daily - have a person, neighbor, friend, or family member do this daily.
- Arrange daily checks for leaks or other maintenance issues. Spotting any issues early – and within a certain window of time from their start – will be a great help.
- Ensure that the check-ins are documented. The best way to do that is to use a cellphone camera to take photos or videos of the property. It’s important to document visits even if everything looks normal. If something breaks tomorrow, it can be vital to show it wasn’t broken today.
Today we’re going to keep talking about protecting a property during a long trip. This time, we’ll cover steps that should be taken a week or so before departure, and then immediately prior to leaving.
A week or so before leaving:
- Connect a few lights to a timer and set them to go on every day after dark. This will keep the property from being totally dark – a sure giveaway that no one is home.
- Don’t close blinds and shutters or install new perimeter lighting. Changes like these make it obvious that a property will soon be unattended, which can make it a target.
Right before leaving:
- Turn the heat down to no lower than 55 degrees. Don’t turn it completely off during the winter; as the temperature drops, the risk of frozen pipes goes up dramatically.
- Lock the house. That includes pet doors, garage doors, and windows that might normally be left open.
- Throw away any perishables if the trip is planned to last more than 3 days or so. It’s no fun to come back to a rotting mess in the fridge!
Today is all about snow safety. When we think of winter hazards... frozen pipes and ice dams might be the first things that come to mind, but heavy snow can cause problems too. Here’s what to do when heavy snow hits
- When the storm arrives, stay put if possible. The best way to keep safe in a big snowstorm is to avoid exposure to the hazards entirely. Stay with supplies, sheltered inside a building, unless you find it absolutely necessary to go out.
- If planning to remove snow from the roof, be safe. Removing the weight of heavy snow from the roof can help prevent a possible roof collapse, but only if care is taken to remove that snow in a safe manner. Never step out onto a roof covered in snow; instead, use a snow removal roof rake.
- Heat the home safely. Read and understand all instructions for heaters and other sources of warmth. Make sure that no heat source is ever too close to anything flammable. Never leave a fireplace or other open flame burning unattended.
Candles are often a beautiful part of holiday decorating, but if they’re not used with some care, they can quickly turn into a hazard. These tips will help ensure candle safety throughout the holiday season:
Consider battery operated candles. Nowadays they look great, come in all different shapes and sizes, are very realistic, and are much safer than an open flame.
Place candles on sturdy, flame resistant bases. Metal, glass, and ceramic holders are all good choices. The bases should be wide, sturdy and difficult to knock over.
Never leave candles unattended or burning overnight. When leaving a room, or turning in for the night, blow out the candles.
Keep candles at least 12 inches from anything that can burn. Drapes, bed sheets, furniture, even certain types of wood become fire hazards when near a candle. Give the flame at least 12 inches of space.
Don’t put candles in the window. Electric candles that look great in the window have been around for years. They never have to be re-lit, and they’re a whole lot safer.
Yesterday we talked about candles – today we’ll talk about the safest ways to enjoy their bigger cousin, the fireplace.
- Have the fireplace and chimney cleaned and inspected once a year. This step is important whether the fireplace sees regular use, or burns just once a year.
- Keep the area around the fireplace clean. This area needs to be free of debris, especially anything flammable. The walls and floors around the fireplace should made of (or covered with) a fire-resistant material like stone or metal.
- Keep the mesh screen closed at all times. The mesh screen helps keep embers from escaping the fireplace and causing a fire hazard. If a fireplace does not have a mesh screen, buy one and use it.
The holidays are about many different things, but for a lot of people, food is one key ingredient that makes the season special. But when it comes to cooking food - and especially some of the hearty dishes that we often see in winter - it's important to do so safely. In particular, it's key to know how to handle a grease fire if one should start.
Grease Fire Dos
- Put on oven mitts for hand protection.
- Eliminate the heat source by turning off the stove or grill.
- If possible, put out the fire with an extinguisher.
- If no extinguisher is available, cover the pan with a lid. If it’s a grill, shut the lid.
- As a last resort, cut off the fire’s oxygen supply by smothering it with baking soda or salt.
Grease Fire Don’ts
- NEVER throw water on a grease fire. It will actually splash and spread the flames, making a fire harder to control.
- NEVER use flour or sugar to smother a fire. Rather than helping put out the flames, these can actually cause a powder explosion and do even more damage
Today we're going to take a quick trip back to a topic we've already discussed: ice dams. Today we'll look at what can be done to prevent ice dams, rather than dealing with spotting and removing them after they've formed. The key to preventing them in the first place is to get temperatures even across the entire roof - rather than warmer inside and colder on the eaves.
- Insulate the attic. Insulation keeps hot air from rising up and heating the roof.
- Ventilate appropriately. Make sure that ridge and soffit vents are placed appropriately, and make sure that baffles are installed at the eaves to keep the airflow path clear.
- Seal lights, hatches, and ductwork. All those little things in the attic give off heat! Make sure they’re appropriately weatherstripped, sealed, and insulated.
We hope you have enjoyed our 12 Days of Winter Warnings.
Everyone at Rutt Insurance wishes you and your family a Happy Thanksgiving, a very Merry Christmas, a safe and joyous New Year.
--Content used in this post was originally published by Mammoth Restoration & Construction and is used with their permission.
THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 1, 2018
When Andrew Singer brought home his newest collectible car in the spring of 2017, it failed the sniff test. Sugar the Singer family’s terrier, threw her forepaws over the left front fender of the 2006 Lotus Elise, and the yellow roadster advanced no further into the garage. Sugar smelled the spice of mice.
During the winter, as the result of the previous owner’s careless winter storage, the little rodents built a nest in the dashboard behind the speedometer. “They hadn’t damaged anything—just were hanging out,” Singer said.
Over a long winter, rodents can wreak more automotive misery per ounce than any car deserves, chewing up wiring, upholstery, and fabric. A popular mouse-fighting measure is to put dryer sheets in the passenger compartment. But some experts dispute the effectiveness, saying the smell may only offer an initial defense before mice get used to it. Mousetraps and mothballs on the garage floor may prove little more effective.
Singer has found an altogether foolproof defense for his collection. “The cat patrols the garage after dinner,” he said.
Rodent protection is just one consideration for those who decommission their vintage and collectible cars during the winter. Here are a few other tips for protecting that special car:
Wash & Wax
Wash and wax the body and give the interior a once-over to remove specks, globs, and splats that might have a corrosive effect.
To prevent varnish from forming, fill the gas tank and add fuel stabilizer. Doing this will thwart contaminants. One source recommends running the engine a few minutes to circulate stabilized gas through the fuel system.
Change the oil and filter, which are likely to have corrosion-causing agents. Top off the levels of other fluids. Changing engine coolant, transmission fluid, and differential oil is optional and proves just how meticulous one can be.
A nice, dry garage is ideal for winter storage. Even if the car is garaged, a vapor barrier on the floor prevents condensation buildup on the underbody and suspension. Sheet plastic or a tarp will do the job.
“If your car will be in storage for more than 30 days, consider taking the wheels off and placing the car on jack stands at all four corners,” says Edmunds.com. Where winter isn't too long, adding extra air to the tires will serve to prevent flat spots.
Leave a car with automatic transmission in “Park.” Leave a car with a manual transmission in neutral and chock the wheels. Either way, do not set the parking brake, which would result in brake pads “freezing” against the drums or rotors because of corrosion.
Remove the battery and put it on a tender until spring.
Car covers are worth the expense. Our favorite purveyor of upmarket car-care items describes their triple-layer cover in technical terms that made us think we’d found NASA’s website by mistake. The cover should be breathable and have a soft inner layer to protect the paint.
There are more elaborate schemes for preserving a special car in the winter. Some owners are so fastidious, they might advocate having it shrink-wrapped and sent to the International Space Station. But the list we present here is just right for the average person’s Saturday afternoon and will keep 99.5 percent of the problems at bay—especially if, as our friend Andrew Singer attests, the dog and cat are living up to their end of the bargain.
originally published by Hagarty Insurance
Posted 9:00 AM
WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2018
Beware of Flood-Damaged Vehicles
Cox Automotive estimates the number of vehicles lost to Hurricane Florence-related flooding between 20,000 and 40,000. And, as typically occurs after a mass-flooding event, there are concerns about these vehicles being resold throughout the country – to unsuspecting buyers and to those who don’t understand the financial repercussions of purchasing a flood-damaged car.
HOW TO IDENTIFY A FLOOD-DAMAGED VEHICLE
The National Association of Insurance Commissioners (NAIC) offers a consumer alert with tips for identifying a previously flooded car, including:
- Check the National Motor Vehicle Title Information System, a database of total loss and junk/salvage vehicles
- Look for suspicious signs of a flooded vehicle (e.g. rust, corrosion, mildew smell)
- Demand to see the title, as some car wholesalers will claim to have lost the title or will transfer it to avoid disclosing flood damage
Review the NAIC Consumer Alert
WHAT TO EXPECT FROM CARRIERS, LENDERS
Insurance companies likely will not provide comprehensive and collision coverage on a flood-damaged car because its value and the extent of repairs are uncertain. In turn, without securing comprehensive and collision coverage, consumers likely cannot secure a car loan.
Pennsylvania Insurance Commissioner Jessica Altman in a recent press release on Florence-damaged cars added:
Even if the vehicle is new, if a claim is later filed, the insurance company will research the vehicle history and see the prior claim for flood damage. If the vehicle is deemed to be a total loss, the insurer will likely pay out significantly less than would be paid for a vehicle that did not have flood damage.
originally published by Insurance Agents & Brokers www.iabforme.com
Posted 10:46 AM
MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2018
Carve in a Clean, Dry, Well-lit Area
Wash and thoroughly dry all of the tools that you will use, including: carving tools, knife, cutting surface, and your hands. Any moisture on your tools, hands, or table can cause slipping that can lead to injuries.
Always Have Adult Supervision
"All too often, we see adolescent patients with injuries because adults feel the kids are responsible enough to be left on their own," says Wint. "Even though the carving may be going great, it only takes a second for an injury to occur."
Leave the Carving to Adults
Never let children do the carving. Wint suggests letting kids draw a pattern on the pumpkin and having them be responsible for cleaning out the inside pulp and seeds. When the adults do start cutting, they should always cut away from themselves and cut in small, controlled strokes.
Sharper is Not Better
"A sharper knife is not necessarily better, because it often becomes wedged in the thicker part of the pumpkin, requiring force to remove it," says Wint. "An injury can occur if your hand is in the wrong place when the knife finally dislodges from the thick skin of the pumpkin. Injuries are also sustained when the knife slips and comes out the other side of the pumpkin where your hand may be holding it steady."
Use a Pumpkin Carving Kit
Special kits are available in stores and include small, serrated pumpkin saws that work better because they are less likely to get stuck in the thick pumpkin tissue. "If they do get jammed and then wedged free, they are not sharp enough to cause a deep, penetrating cut," says Wint.
Help for An Injury
Should you cut your finger or hand, bleeding from minor cuts will often stop on its own by applying direct pressure to the wound with a clean cloth. If continuous pressure does not slow or stop the bleeding after 15 minutes, an emergency room visit may be required.
Originally published by American Society for Surgery of the Hand http://www.assh.org/handcare/
Posted 11:05 AM
THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2018
While every enthusiast knows that cars are the opposite of commodities, it’s still true that the collector car market runs in cycles, just like grain and gold. A few years ago, the collector car market boomed in a way that would make Bitcoin speculators blush. Thankfully, the heat came out of that climate in 2014 before any bubble burst, but things have mostly been sleepy ever since. This "soft landing" persisted in 2017, but there are clear signs the market is starting to wake up again. The folks at Hagerty explain….
First of all, the collector car market changed less over the past year than at any point over the past decade. This stability was demonstrated in value adjustments as reported in the Hagerty Price Guide (which were minimal), activity among the broad-based Hagerty Hundred Index (which was static during 2017), and in North American auction totals (which were only a shade under the level from 2016).
While little has changed in the market at a 30,000-foot level, upon closer inspection some sectors are clearly stirring. For example, six of Hagerty’s seven indices have gained value since September—the first time in two years this has happened. Additionally, those cars that did lose value did so at lower rates than they in the first eight months of 2017, which indicates that the most volatile cars in the market have found their footing.
Another positive sign is that more expensive vehicles are also making moves. Cars in the $50,000–$100,000 range grew in value by five percent, and options in the $100,000–$500,000 range recorded average gains of nearly one percent. It was this latter slice which had retreated the most since 2014, so this is a significant reversal. Lastly, more high-end cars increased in value than decreased in value over the last four months of the year, inverting a trend that emerged at the beginning of 2017. Increased spending in the more expensive segments suggests that buyers at this level are becoming much more optimistic about the direction of the market, which typically leads the rest of the market.
Even when looking at auction totals that were two percent shy of those recorded in 2016, there are still encouraging signs. Although gross numbers fell by two percent, to $1.28 billion, fewer cars were offered and the average sale price was up by two percent, as was the overall sell-through rate (hitting a high not seen since 2011). In short, owners aren’t looking to cash in on recent big gains, and buyers are more comfortable spending money—all of which is good news.
Furthermore, cars from the 1990s have realized the biggest gains since September, with average prices increasing two percent, putting them up 10 percent for the year. British and German cars all made strong moves to close out the year, with price changes in the one- to two-percent range. Among these cars, the Triumph GT6 rose by six percent and the BMW 2002 spiked by 12 percent. High horsepower cars (up 11 percent), luxury performance cars (up 12 percent), exotics (up eight percent) and trucks (up six percent) all underscore that there is growing interest under the surface.
It’s not all roses, however. Despite moving in the right direction, four of Hagerty’s seven indices are still below where they were a year ago, even if only by a point or two. Expensive "high-volume" cars such as the Ferrari 275 GTB continue to drop, down four percent over four months and nine percent year over year, which will likely keep the best examples off the market for a little while longer. Mercedes-Benz 300SL roadsters, down six percent, are also on the same track. Despite interest generally creeping upmarket, cars in the $500,000–$1,000,000 range are still down one percent from a year ago. Cars in this segment may be moving up, but they are starting from a trough.
Some other cars that were major movers in 2016 have started to coast. The Ferrari Enzo jumped in value by 76 percent in 2016, only to increase by just nine percent in 2017. Early Volkswagen Beetles (1946–48) are up four percent over the past 12 months following a 21-percent climb in 2016. And the Ferrari F355 adjusted downward by nearly 10 percent this year after increasing by an average of 46 percent a year ago. There are dozens of other examples that show cars either losing speed or changing direction.
All of this is a great reminder of another similarity between collector cars and commodities: There are few sure things. While prospects are looking up for next year, individual results can vary greatly.
-Content used with permission, received from, and originally published by Hagerty